Daniel Duane has captured what is undoubtedly the feelings of new and not so new surfers the world over. This is an honest account of what happens to you after you've ridden your first wave. That is that your life will never be the same again. And Duane comes as close to explaining why as anyone since Jerry Lopez. It has nothing to do with ability and everything to do with how surfing makes you feel and understand your place in the world. It has nothing to do with competing with others and everything to do with competing with yourself. This book has soul and it has it because its straightforward honesty allows you to escape into another dimension. It won't tell you how to perform a cutback or a floater but it will give you an insight into why, when you attempt a cutback or a floater you come closer to understanding yourself than ever before. Buy this book if you like surfing, the ocean, nature or you just love well written voyages of discovery.