Bowen writes: "Waves are elemental things that touch something primeval within human beings.The sheer raw power on display when open ocean waves exhaust themselves on the beach draws people towards them. Dangerous, yet fascinating. It's this visceral energy that surfers experience more directly than anyone, riding these ripples of energy at their last gasp across the sea."
In this book Jon Bowen captures some of the exhilaration and the adrenaline-charged moments faced by surfers, sharing their fascination with the endless variation and permutations of shape that breaking waves form.


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